Gravel roads don’t have the adventurous chops of a two-track. Still, turning off of pavement stirs that part of the brain which knows wilderness. When the road disappears into a river-scoured canyon, even the weariest traveler can sit up and take notice. I was weary. I was also watching.
Four days of Big Sky and big waters had left me depleted. But there was something more. Deep in my gut, a microscopic organism was preparing to attack me. In the morning it would give me misery but for now it just made me feel sour and sleepy. Also, I was fished out.