The sun hadn't quite poked over the mangroves off to the east, so it hadn't had the chance to burn off the thin film of humid mist hanging over the dark waters of Matlacha Pass. With each uncertain stroke, I powered the much-too-small, lime-green borrowed kayak across the bay, headed toward a cut in the mangroves about a half-mile away in hopes of arriving early enough to stake out some prime fly fishing water.

In Kenya’s Aberdare National Park, you can tip-toe the muddy churn and felled trees of elephant trails, sneak past bedded Cape buffalo, and crouch to cast into remote stretches of cold stream that’re barely wider than your wingspan. Limbs link to form arches overhead. Lichen and ferns cling to steep, lush, towering banks. And, there, you’ll find the progeny of Scottish trout that have been breeding mostly unmolested since 1905.